I have a confession to make. I’ve lived in Los Angeles practically my entire life and though I have visited downtown on occasion, I never saw much of the beauty in it as I should have, that is until I saw 500 Days of Summer. Unconsciously, that was probably the inspiration of our little downtown adventure. We could have taken the metro to another locale, but downtown Los Angeles, with all its grittiness, history and renewed interest seemed like the perfect place to spend a Sunday afternoon, and being someone who loves old, good, things, Clifton’s Cafeteria was just the right place to start.
I know what you might be thinking. Why would you go to eat there? Clifton’s it seems, doesn’t have the best reputation concerning their food. I’ll tell you why I went – because you don’t go to Clifton’s because you’re hungry and in need of some elitist four-course meals to savor your appetite. You go there for the atmosphere, the people, the kitschy-coolness of it all and if you can’t get past the taste of the food to see all that, well then I don’t know what to tell you. Go to a swanky restaurant on Sunset and call it a day. Let’s move on to the green jello.
Yes there’s jello. Lot’s of it. This particular one above is a pear jello, but there were all sorts of flavors, including a “cheese jello” that looked a bit strange. Clifton’s also has bread pudding, fruit salad, tapioca – you name it, they got it. They’re also quite the creative bunch, as evidenced by the vegetable swan/duck below.
Beyond the desserts and salads, you find enchiladas and turkey breast and meat loaf and all the macaroni and cheese you can eat. Candy colored beverages, in flavors such as watermelon, mango and lemonade line the end of your journey as you make your way to the counter to pay. It’s only when you’ve gotten a handle on your food that you begin to notice the decor of Clifton’s.
It looks like the home of a hunter who decided he couldn’t fathom being away from the forest during off-season, so he did the next best thing: brought the wilderness into his home. There are moose heads and bass hanging in various places around the cafeteria, along with a fireplace and various objects on the wall – it’s like Elmer Fudd’s mothership, but that makes for a more interesting time and conversation.
After Clifton’s, it was time to wander around, hopefully do some shopping and waste time before we had to be back home. Because Los Angeles is so huge, you tend to forget what else it has to offer beyond the 10-mile radius you live in. It’s just waiting to be explored, there are so many interesting parts of this city that go unnoticed because someone happens to live in Santa Monica and it’s just too much hassle to drive beyond the 405, a sentiment that is probably echoed in the other direction by your average Valley dweller.
The Orpheum Theatre above opened in 1926 and was a popular venue for the Marx Brothers, Judy Garland as well as Ella Fitzgerald and Duke Ellington. I mean, Ella Fitzgerald was in Los Angeles, in the same building, decades and decades ago – that just blows my mind.
The buildings below make up the famous Santee Alley, known for its fashion and furnshings you can score at affordable prices.
By the end of the day we were tired, but the 20 minute ride back home was calming, except for the girl who went on endlessly about how other people shouldn’t be blaming her for being more successful than them. I guess the cost of public transportation is annoying people, but you take what you can get.
More photos here.
